End of a Continent

Saturday 10/22/2016

The wifi/internet at the hotel last night was annoyingly sporadic. It is strange how much that is a concern to me. Perhaps it is because of the language barrier that I have come to rely on the Internet for information about my destinations. But I think mostly it is because I want to learn from other riders doing the same thing I am doing.

You see, the principal reason that I decided to do this ride, was through reading the reports of others who have done and are doing the same thing. There is a community of riders that use the forum www.advrider.com. One of the places mentioned that I wanted to visit was Barrancas del Cobre, or Copper Canyon. It is a series of canyons that is supposed to be several times larger than the Grand Canyon. But leaving Chihuahua the other day, I missed the road to the two towns closest to it.

When wifi improved at the lobby, I was able to upload my previous post, and I found a report of a rider who had been to the Copper Canyon just a week before me. I know this is a little long, but it is an interesting read:

Day 20 - Creel to Botapilas 

Today has been one of the most interesting days of my entire life

After checking out of our hotel, we were surprised by the near 0 degree Celsius air outside. We actually had to put an extra layer on! We then rode a couple blocks toward the main drag to a shop that says "lodge" and "espresso". We went there because last night while out prowling, I noticed it was one of the busier places and assumed it must be good... Plus it said espresso, and although it's only been 4 days or so, I haven't had a real coffee yet. 

This place turned out to be one of the better places we've eaten. The owner was incredibly helpful and friendly, and spoke good English. He helped us with some
Spanish terms and made us wonderful
Fruit and yogurt and Mexican scrambled eggs with handmade corn tortillas. I'd definitely recommend finding this place for breakfast and a real coffee, he seemed like a genuine guy and had an area for live music in the back. His shop seemed a little more like something you'd see on a hipster street in Canada then Mexico. 

We headed towards Batopilas around 10. Last night Kaitlyn did a little too much googling (see creel massacre YouTube videos, Batopilas murders, October is marijuana/poppy harvest season, etc..) and was having second thoughts regarding going there. The guy at the espresso lodge had good words regarding Batopilas though (but don't travel st night he said! - gringo rule #1) so that seemed to sway her opinion. Plus I've been dreaming about riding roads like that for years so I was going regardless. 

The road there was very very good, seemed a lot like idaho or Montana for quite a while until it started to turn into more canyonlike landscape. The riding was absolutely incredible. Endless curves for 100-150km (my GPS wanted me to take a route towards Urique, I think it was unaware that the bridge is now complete. This route would be awesome to take if I had a week or so to explore, but apparently can be dangerous due to the narcos. It's also likely too rough for my fully loaded vstrom 2 up). the point where my GPS wanted me to turn was roughly 45 km from botapilas near a Tamahumara village. Also, It struck me as somewhat odd that many of the villages had barbed wire fences. 

The road between creel and Batopilas is littered with Tamahumara villages and the tribespeople walking along the roadsides. They are indigenous to the area and many of them still live their traditional way of life high up in the mountains. They're easily identifiable by their brightly coloured dresses. Some of the villages we drove through had schoolyards full of traditionally dressed children. Ever so often you can catch a glimpse of one of their homes high up. It's hard to believe they love such an isolated life. Whereas many Mexicans wave at us, the Tamahumara people show no emotion. I often smile or wave but get a face of stone returned. 

Anther interesting point to mention is that on the ride here, ever so often, very nice very new trucks would meet us on the highway... As well as cows, Bulls, sheep, goats, and donkeys. And their shit everywhere! 

The highway itself was one of the most magnificent I have ever ridden. It's mostly new asphalt but 50% of is is already falling away, has boulders on it, or is badly damaged due to landslides. How the government ever plans to maintain this road is beyond me. It is a constant rebuilding process along this route. But the views are absolutely amazing and make you feel incredibly small and insignificant. It is definitely a road that has beat anything I have ever ridden in all of Canada, us, Baja Mexico, Switzerland, Thailand, etc... 

many of the people trying to repair the washouts were using basic hand tools, 4x4 posts, and twisted wire to build retaining walls... No piles to be driven, no I beams welded, no proper concrete forms, seemingly zero engineering.

Arrival

Coming into Batopilas you cross a sketchy bridge. It wouldn't be that hard to ride across except if you fell to the right, you could potentially fall of the bridge. And I'm afraid of heights. The cement was uneven so I made Kait walk and was quite nervous even so. The thought of losing my balance and falling off into the rocks below made my hands feel a little weak while crossing. 

After crossing you take an immediate left. The main road/town built along it follows the river maybe 700 M, then follows the river as it bends left another 2000m or so where the "town" ends. Within 200m of crossing the bridge we seen numerous young men (15-22ish?) with tactical vests, body armour, ammo belts, assault rifles, etc getting into a truck. Kaitlin was quite unnerved but the people around town hardly batted an eye. I wasn't sure what to think. 

We had trouble finding Juanitas. NOTE. The main road runs directly along the river without topes. The road we took through the town has topes so bad that I bottomed the bike out and even got hung up with my rear tire off the ground a couple times. I really wish I had a better rear shock, a skid plate, and or no passenger or hear while crossing these topes. Don't take this road unless necessary. Once we found Juanitas, (it's unmarked - orange/red building near the water) we road the bike right through her living room and hallway and into her backyard courtyard. Once again I got hung up on the stairs (thankfully my exhaust takes the beating and protects my oil sump). My vstrom just barely makes it through her gate. 

The hotel is highly recommended among riders. She seems nice, loves Jesus, likes bikers, but definitely doesn't speak English. The rooms were ok, no AC, not as nice as our room in Creel but only $17. No wifi whatsoever in this town. If it wasn't for cell phones, this town would have no contact with the outside world outside of a 4 hour on way drive. 

We quickly unloaded and walked back towards the bridge. At one point two huge side by side ATVs loaded with young men (same guys with tactical vests and assault rifles) comes flying through the narrow city streets at a ridiculous speed with a load of cargo in the back. Later on me and Kait walked pay them and they had many "sacks" of "goods" on the back, as well as whole marijuana plants. They were just hanging out, texting, fiddling with their guns and chatting. They didn't seem to care about our presence and just seemed to be waiting for something. Maybe someone, maybe an order to go somewhere, who knows. We walked past them twice and my curiosity was hard to control. I would've loved to take some photos but I'm not sure they would've liked it. I would love to talk with them, learn how things work around here and in their industry, and spend a day getting a tour, but unfortunately I don't think Narcos have much interest in showing gringo around... That and my sense of self preservation is a little better then that! 

The entire town is very very isolated, only one very very rough, very long, twisty road runs through it. No police force, although there are schools, small shops, 3 restaurants, 3 hotels, hospital, etc. Many vehicles make it here but don't make it back. Dozens, if not hundreds of car frames, transmissions, engines, axles, etc lay around town. We saw a BRAND NEW Tahoe Denali with dozens of bulletholes all over the hood and doors, as well as a brand new Dodge Ram Laramie truck with bulletholes through the passenger and driver windows. Such a sight is hard to believe, but the people here seem to think nothing of it and the vehicles are parked as though nothing is wrong. I'm not sure if the vehicles are from the rival cartels and are on display as a sort of "trophy" or if they are an recently deceased members vehicle to be passed on to the next member in line. We also saw a rolled over Mitsubishi truck with blood still smeared all down the door. Dangerous roads for sure. 

People here also have a high percentage of very nice new trucks and SUVs. Despite this, many of them are wrecked to the point that they are hardly drive able. We saw numerous 2015 and 2016 trucks that were so badly beaten and abused that they looked like they came from a scrap yard. Multiple people drove across the river without a second thought of slowing for rocks as well. Vehicles are totally disposable without a notion of resale value. I may not get a photo of the Narcos, but I'd like a photo of the bullet hole ridden vehicles. I would've taken one but a young boy seemed to be watching us from his doorway on the street where they were parked. He was probably a look out of some sort ? From what I've read, the Narcos pay young kids to do their surveillance work. All the young guys with guns had radios with them at all times. I wish I could understand the chatter. 

Kait and I went looking for cervesa and as far as I can tell, it's only available in restaurants here. We tried to eat at a place that advertised beer, but they didn't seem interested in serving us. We tried Micas as it was recommended but no one was home. The restaurants here are merely extra tables in a families home. Eventually we ate at Cammilias, located right near the town square. As we ate, a group of heavily armed men/Marcos/cartel walked past. They came back ten minutes later in regular street clothes and no weapons and sat at the table beside us. I guess their shift was over. Without the radios, weapons, and gear, they looked like normal people. I guess people do whatever they can to get by. Again, I would've killed to be able to us west and their Spanish. They were served just the same as us. 

Later on we walked towards the ball courts. Young kids playing basketball at one court and the Narcos and other young waitresses and teens we recognized from around town playing volleyball at the other court. The narcos had numerous vehicles there, and hung out as if anyone else would. Once in a while their radios would chatter and 4 of them would hop onto a side by side or truck and take off tearing down the streets. Maybe to get money, maybe make a drop off? Who knows ?

Seeing cartel like this makes it hard to believe the atrocities they commit. Beheadings, executions, massacring families.. And in Botalipas they eat next to you, and take part in events as though they're not criminals at all. Kids grow up along this and I guess they fill the positions as they get old enough. 

Walking down the street later we heard in English, a lady call "hey how are you". We turned to see an elderly, 75ish year old Mexican. She had a house right on the town square and invited us to chat. She explained much of her life, sold me a book she wrote about Botalipas, and explained that much of the fighting is due to the Sinoloa and Juarez cartel fighting for control of the marijuana crops. I believe they also grow poppy here for heroin. I'm not sure if cocaine production/transport is part of their portfolio, although I imagine it is. She explained that they are all nice boys and often help her cross the road, carry groceries, etc and are children of many of the townspeople. She also had a priest come visit her while we were there and he asked me for help cutting something tomorrow at 7 am. I do not know what, but I am going to show up and find out. His English was very poor. She offered for us to stay tomorrow night at her house. On one hand, I'd like to take the opportunity to stay with and live like a local. It would be especially interesting due to Batopilas being so small (1500 people) where everyone knows everyone. On the other hand, we have miles to make and we've already seen a lot of what the town has to offer. Kait is also a little uneasy about the situation. I asked her if she ever felt scared or threatened, and she said no, but it is not something you expect and is difficult to understand. She's a brave girl to ride from
Kelowna to Mexico City with me. Prior to this she had never been on a moto for more than 10 minutes at a time. 


Living in Canada, cartel are something we hear about in movies, but never even makes the news up north. Shows like Narcos, Breaking Bad, and the occasional news article online showing a beheading is about the most exposure I've ever had. And now today I had supper among them and hung out at the ball court alongside them. I never felt scared, as they have little reason to harm me and seem to have a "don't cause a scene, and we'll keep the police, federals, and army out of your canyon" thing going on with law enforcement. It is hard to believe how much my life has changed over the past few weeks, and how much my perspective of the world has changed. I'm very glad I made the trek here into the canyon, and would highly recommend it to anyone wanting to see the underbelly of Mexico. It's a shame that many narcotics can't be legalized,highly regulated, and made into a "healthier" industry that protects the users (clean, uncut drugs at a regulated potency) and also creating real jobs at legitimate farms, factories, warehouses, etc. taking the money out of the cartels hands, creating taxable sales, and ending the violence. The war on drugs isn't working and I can now see the result of the black market it has created. Drug users and abusers will exist regardless of legality, but having child soldiers carrying assault rifles, massacring families, and beheading rival gangs is a direct result of the criminalization of narcotics. Just as prohibition of alcohol in the 30's created a crime rise, the same is occurring now. I guess history does repeat itself.. /rant over 

The point is, perhaps it was best that I missed the road. I was a little disappointed until I read his report, but I believe that everything happens for a reason, so no regrets.

Also, there is a train that goes between Chihuahua and Los Mochis (it is supposed to be Mexico's only passenger train) that goes through the canyon area. I stopped at the station in Los Mochis for information but it was closed for the weekend. I think that train ride would be great, but it will wait for another time.

I crossed into my third state in Mexico, Sinoloa. Most of the day was long stretches of staight, boring toll roads that brought me to the Capital city of Sinoloa, Culiacán.

The tollroads, or cuotas, are pretty good roads; often 4 lane divided highway. Still, I must be vigilant; I passed a funeral procession going the other way. They were walking down the highway. And as the rider said in the post I quoted, rule #1, don't ride at night. I also passed a dead horse on the side of the road today, a black horse. So it was with relief that I reached my hotel just after sunset.

I stayed at an Ibis hotel. This was my secure parking:

While eating in the hotel, I met Gus. Although born in Mexico, he lives in California and is a Farmer's Insurance agent. He is building a second home in Mexico. We had a long conversation about the upcoming elections, baseball, my trip, etc. It is great when I can converse in English. I am getting much better understanding and making simple requests in Spanish, but I wouldn't be able to dialogue for very long.